One thing digital has really made available to photography is the ability to easily create printed images. What has always been a problem however, is displaying the images. Additionally, if you are growing in your abilities as an artist, what you shot last year maybe doesn’t quite live up to your expectations of what you shoot currently. So we have two problems – many image presentations are difficult and expensive and because of the nature of art, need to be replaced at some reasonable intervals. I do have a recommendation.
Nielsen makes a frame – the N5621, which is perfect for photographers. The frame is produced with a groove to which the image and a backing mat is slid into the frame and secured with back clips. An adjustable hanging wire can be changed from landscape to portrait with a simple screwdriver. The use of Plexiglass or a front mat are completely optional and in many cases unnecessary. Let me explain.
I print with the Epson 3800 which allows for a maximum print paper size of 17×22″. I have the frame and backing made to 17×22″ and
10x15" image in 17x22" frame without front matting
everything fits perfectly without any front matting. The print is centered, usually some where around 10×15″ or so and the results are museum quality as you can see from the photo.
Another alternative is to use a front mat with the window cut out 1/4″
24x24" frame with 12x18" image and mat
to 1/2″ larger than the image size. In this frame, I used a 24×24″ frame with a 12×18″ image which I taped between the two mats. You can use acid free tape etc. but realistically, the image will probably be changed before any damage from the tape ever occurs. You can add clear or ultra violet Plexiglass but you really don’t need to. Again, it adds cost and the fact remains that images are changed often anyway. If you want something more permanent though, you do have the Plexiglass options.
back corner hardware
To add or remove the images, you need only to loosen two screws on the back of the frame, pull one side out, insert the image and backing and push the frame back together and tighten the screws. Here’s what the back corners look like. I usually add a piece of felt or a plastic bumper to protect the wall and keep the frame from moving on the wall.
Hanging wire and hardware
As I stated earlier, the hanging wire is very easy to adjust and can be configured for both portraits or landscapes as shown on the right.
Back clips and tools
Also as mentioned, clips are used to keep everything secure and slide between the frame and the backing. The only tools you’ll need are a screwdriver and needle nose pliers. The tools and clip are shown in the photo on the left.
So, what are the costs? Well a 17×22″ frame with backing will run around $110 and a 24×24″ around $141. Not bad when you consider that the frame can be used time and time again. Plexiglass and Ultra violet Plexiglass will run another $20 to $45 depending on size. Again, you really don’t even need to use Plexiglass as the image framed without Plexiglass is the best non-glare situation you can get.
Where do you get the Nielsen frames? You might look around but I found them somewhat difficult to find. I use a professional framer who is well know and respected by silent cinema movie poster collectors – Roy Hermann of Frame ‘n Rail. Roy’s email address is roycpf@socal.rr.com and his telephone number is (661) 251-1093. His studio is in Canyon Country, California but Roy is great about custom making to size and shipping directly. I use the black frames but I believe they also come in silver. There may be other options but you’ll need to check with Roy.
So, if you’re interested in displaying your photos with a flexible and reasonably priced system but without the hassle of running to the frame shop every time you get tired of your image and want to replace it, give the Nielsen system and Roy a shot.
